Remembering When I Was Dusty Around the Eyes
Names change colors when you are dusty around the eyes. Watch a gerenuk at sunset while listening to a Walkman. These two odd sentences are…
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Don’t Trust Poems Written Late at Night on a Table of Rickety Wood
I never saw the snake that should have killed me. My first and only indication that something was amiss was my Ugandan chimp tracker and…
Hyenas and Ammo Cans
The tarmac ended one day’s drive out of Nairobi. Now, the sun is almost gone. The forest leans over the riverbank, every color that can be compounded…
This Is Why I Learned to Scuba Dive
My fins were in my left hand and my mask was on my face. The Red Sea was so warm I could barely feel it…
Who Needs Warning Signs Crossing the Nile (Not Me)
In traveling, as in life, there are some things you simply don’t tell your parents. Going beyond what happens at the hostel stays at the…
When Good Street Food Goes Bad
A cannibalism close call When I arrived in Fort Portal, Uganda, back in 1998, Jackson’s samosas ruled supreme over the street food scene. He peddled…
A Camel Named Tom Marley
“Tom Marley is a racing camel,” Ahmed said. “The fastest in all of the Sinai.” “Tom Marley?” I asked. “Not Bob?” Ahmed appeared somewhat surprised…
Semliki Note #3–Combs
On the higher parts of the trail, where the water is still and shallow, I can see yesterday’s current engraved in the sand through water…
Semliki Note #1–Data
Up early with the bats in a soft rain, I’m walking down a steep path to the climate station we’ve set up at the river.…
How To Almost Run into a Massive Hippopotamus
Three of us lurched down the narrow path carved into the dense forest. Weaving our way from one side of the path to the other, we…